Casual coastal excellence.

It could be all about the view at Shorehouse, a restaurant perfectly appointed to drink in its Indian Ocean outlook. But the biggest drawcard is surely on the page, first with sommelier Nina Throsby’s nationally regarded wine list that’s voluminous by any standard – crucially, the front-of-house team knows how to deftly navigate it – and next with the casual coastal menu.

As is the brief with the other venues in the Kailis portfolio, the family’s fishing heritage is an imprint, whether in larger dishes like pan-fried market fish (crisp-skinned snapper, perhaps), sweet blue swimmer crab and prawn linguine, or a snack-sized Shark Bay prawn schnitzel served in a pretzel bun with a slick of taramasalata. Things from the land are excellently handled, too, lamb backstrap from the Josper grill arriving with just the right amount of blush, a juicy half chicken humming with spice.

As is the brief with the other venues in the Kailis portfolio, the family’s fishing heritage is an imprint, whether in larger dishes like pan-fried market fish (crisp-skinned snapper, perhaps), sweet blue swimmer crab and prawn linguine, or a snack-sized Shark Bay prawn schnitzel served in a pretzel bun with a slick of taramasalata.

Adding to an already overflowing scorecard, there’s an abundance of good vegetables here: a radicchio and mandarin salad is an essential cleanser with its contrast of bitter and bright flavours. Then even if it sits unassumingly among the sides, don’t skip the wood-grilled leek with burnt butter, crisped pork cheek and Manchego – worthy, as with The Shorehouse, of top billing.