Lively suburban trattoria executes simple Italian pleasures.
One moment you’re in a suburban car park, the next you’re swept into the charming world of mortadella, fresh pasta and tiramisu. Italians know good food and an even better time, so it’s no wonder ThreeCoins doesn’t stray from the tried and true. Staff, many Italian, will lead you through deceptively simple pleasures. Chargrilled house-made focaccia, nicely crisp, is a perfect accompaniment for mortadella and pickle. A pinsa margherita bears the tricolore thanks to basil, mozzarella and confit tomato. Sugo and mozzarella arrive bubbling away within a plate of baked ricotta gnocchi. The presentation is classically Italian but local produce shines, like Shark Bay Prawns, tossed with spaghettini with breadcrumbs, whipped stracciatella and vodka sauce for kick. And grilled rack of pistachio-crusted Amelia Park Lamb, perfectly pink, and accompanied by artichoke whip and fennel. Bravo. It takes skill to deliver something simple with such excellence. On the wine front there’s real thought with well-chosen West Australian and Italian drops, including excellent Negretti Barolo as a premium pour. Oh, and that tiramisu? Creamy, sweet and rich, with a marsala zabaione foam – file it under la dolce vita.
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