Yiamas

Under new owners, this Greek restaurant continues its tradition of smoke, simplicity and surprise. 

Quiet Subiaco street corner or Greek island taverna? The breezy courtyard and the whitewashed stone walls lined with olive trees, plus the wafting scent of charred meats and seafood, brings strong Euro holiday vibes to this spot serving up modern twists on traditional Greek favourites. One mouthful of smoky octopus and you’re seeing Santorini blue. Yiamas is driven by woodfire. Plumes colour the air around the open kitchen, elevating an atmosphere that matches the name: a common Greek phrase used when clinking glasses to wish good health and happiness. The ‘Gavros’ starter (translating to ‘anchovy’) teams a singular salty fish with the sweetness of sautéed onion ribbons and a zigzag of creamy taramasalata on pastry. A tangy secret sauce pools over bulgur wheat and lentil-stuffed dolmades glistening with olive oil while just-blackened arms of tofu-tender octopus in vibrant tomato sambal roar campfire. Whole roasted spuds and a herby bowl of wine-tossed, parmesan-showered cannellini beans give a rustic edge to the more elegant interpretations of Greek cuisine. Service is well-intentioned but noisy acoustics mean you may have to raise your voice when your order is being taken; an extensive wine and ouzo list makes up for it. Finish with the fun of a wobbly bougasta, a hefty, orange-perfumed Greek custard pie.