A Greek treat in the backstreets of Subiaco.
In a former cottage, now with whitewashed and pistachio-coloured walls, a sleek dining room flows through to the coveted al fresco – conjuring up timeless tavernas in idyllic seaside locales. Yet here we are in Subiaco.
The wood-fired hearth crackles away as whiffs of sweet smoke emanate from the kitchen. Seasonal produce, including an animal butchered daily by the kitchen, is kissed by the heat of charcoal, with a mantra of ‘simple done well’ overarching. Hence grilled fish arriving splayed on a platter, gently smoky, discreetly seasoned with the Greek holy trinity of lemon, garlic and oregano. Pitch perfect. Charred eggplant lends complexity in a riff on Greek salad, while sausages are gamey and gently spiced, neatly accompanied by creamy labne and offset by the heat and crunch of pickled chilli. Baklava finds pleasing herbal inflection from bay leaf parfait, showcasing a clever, modern interpretation of the classic. The vivacious and affable floor team are abundant in knowledge of the Greek-centric drinks list, so explore the cleverly curated wine, gin (don’t miss the olive leaf martini), ouzo and digestives, as an enhancement to the overall experience.
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