An eye for the future see this CBD star shine as bright as ever.

Change is afoot at The Heritage. First up, the wine store and bottle shop that was for so long an integral part of the venue proper has been packed up and moved next door. The result is an absolutely stacked offering; shelves and fridges lined with storied locals and international benchmarks.

Back in the restaurant, meanwhile, things have been retooled. First up, what was the old wine store has been rejigged into a private dining room, and the kitchen – once downstairs and servicing the restaurant via dumbwaiter – has been fitted into the restaurant proper. On the pans, longtime chef Gordon Kahle has handed the reins to Guillaume Groult. What hasn’t changed, thankfully, is the commitment to elegant plates with a classic edge, which do just enough to keep things interesting. Sardines on toast, say, underscored by hummus and sharpened by capers. Or cuttlefish cut into noodle-like strips, tossed with rich ragu, the savoury scale further upped by parmesan cream. Service is sharp. The wine menu is expectedly broad, and they make good use of the Coravin. And while dessert is enticing, why not take a peek downstairs at their sibling cocktail bar, Bobèche, and keep the good times rolling?