Modern innovation protected behind a heritage historical wall.
Heritage may be tucked into the business end of the CBD, but from the moment you enter and spy the bentwood chairs, gleaming floors, leather banquettes and oh-so-many wine bottles, you’ll see why so many diners are prepared to loosen their collars and settle in.
Chef Gord Kahle delivers on the plate, too, with boldness, innovation and character in equal measure. Take the ceviche, which might read familiar, but presents more like Japanese chirashizushi, with tuna, apple and macadamia combining in a whoosh of crunch, acid and freshness. If a main course of beautifully rare lamb loin and pressed shoulder with ‘curds and whey’ could be a touch more generous, the daikon comes through with flying colours. A dark, terrine-sized block reveals itself to be the braised radish, rendered buttery smooth and grounded by a dash of beetroot and onion jus. Exceptional, as is the immense wine list that covers all bases, then throws in carafes as an option for sharing.
Chef Gord Kahle delivers on the plate, too, with boldness, innovation and character in equal measure.
Waiters don’t miss a beat with it, either, and are equally likely to encourage you to kick on with a bottle from Heritage’s wine shop next door or at sibling bar Bobèche downstairs. Laughter fills the room, anniversary-giddy couples coo in corners, and coconut semifreddo – a white igloo dome pierced by shards of peanut praline – has sweetness and lime-forward tang that lingers, as will the memories.
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