A classic European bistro with modern sensibilities.
Occupying the space at the base of One Subiaco, on the site of the old Pavilion Markets, Subi Continental is bathed in light. It whispers long lunch. With a capacity pushing 350, the site, which bills itself as a corner tavern and bistro where Paris meets New York (no pressure), could strain under the weight of expectation, not to mention its sheer size. But Subi Continental has one of Perth’s most seasoned hospo professionals in the wings in Miles Hull, who counts Jetty Bar & Eats among his varied interests.
And from entrance, the experience is on show with a friendly, efficient greeting and waitstaff with a good grasp on the menu and the tight wine list. There’s an option to stake your claim at the bar – a spot that by day looks to facilitate solo working lunches and features a casual, reduced menu (clock the cheeseburger) – but it’s the restaurant proper where the magic happens.
Steak tartare for entrée is très traditional, while the kitchen excels with market fish, today goldband snapper plated with spinach, a bisque beurre blanc and charred lemon.
Gildas land piquant and briny, pickled mussels come spread on toast with saffron mayo, crisp croquettes burst to reveal smoked ham hock. Steak tartare for entrée is très traditional, while the kitchen excels with market fish, today goldband snapper plated with spinach, a bisque beurre blanc and charred lemon. It’s some trick pulling this off for such a large space, but somehow, Subi Continental has made it work. Roll up.