A burst of culinary and aesthetic energy on Rokeby Road.

It might be sensory overload for some at this pan-Asian Subiaco eatery. There’s the rainbow transition of coloured lighting, a dimly lit dining room and a soundtrack of clubby beats. There’s energy. It’s perhaps the trademark of the growing family of Sesh Mafia venues (which includes Margot’s and Papi Katsu), where things are amped up not dialled down.

Then, there’s the food. The aroma from the open kitchen and the occasional flash of fire, is full of verve and promise. As a chef, Leigh Power has made his name on his ability to deliver punchy yet balanced menus. Here, starting with plump dumplings is a given. And the charred brussels sprouts while you’re at it, doused in sticky miso and punchy gochujang crunch. Not only a must for vegetarians but a best-on-ground for all. Malay hokkien mee pushes all the right buttons: another first-class option for those leaning into veggies (roast pork and prawn are optional additions). Be warned, you may come with the intention of dinner but leave with the thought of kicking on.