Post has been open three years. Following a faltering start, it was given a major overhaul in late 2017 to become more Italian and, consequently, more accessible and customer focused. The re-jigging has been a success: it is as elegant as ever but more Brera district (Milan) and a little less St Georges Terrace, Perth.

The service here is mature, intelligent and polished – again a posh casual-style dining room in Milan springs to mind. The roster of dishes is a thumbs-down to the previous “wellness” menu and a thumbs-up to simple, stylish Italian dining.

Spring lamb with anchovy dressing, Berkshire pork cotoletta with sage and radicchio, smoked veal tongue with horseradish, parsley and pecorino and a handful of great pasta dishes give you an idea where Post’s head and heart are these days.

Smoked veal tongue is an apposite example of the “new” Post. Brilliantly unfussy, it presented as slices of poached, peeled and still moist tongue, with the punchy heat of horseradish dressing and the grainy tang of pecorino. Superb.

Coralli (it’s a pasta shape) with fennel-braised pork, ruby chard and green olive is, again, simple, but cooked with great ingredients, great timing and great virtuosity. To finish? Well, it would have to be tiramisu. At Post, its sublime version of this classic Venetian pud is teamed with a house-churned mocha gelato.

Post has a clarity and simplicity to its decidedly elegant dining room, service, wine list and menu that make it one of the finest restaurants in Perth.