The Post restaurant at the swank State Buildings and Como At The Treasury Hotel, was the one venue among it’s much awarded, much ballyhooed collection of restaurants, which didn’t fire the imagination. Whereas Petition Kitchen, Long Chim and Wildflower hit the road with their wheels spinning, not so at Post.

State Buildings developer Adrian Fini ordered a re-think, and the result is a far more enticing offer. It is now Italian-ish. The operators are at pains to point out that it is not an Italian restaurant, but the Italian cues are clearly evident.

The food is as elegant and cleanly flavoured as always, but it is delightful to find a good cotoletta on the menu along with a salty, divine bruschetta with sardine. There are a couple of pastas – our favourite is the coralli with fennel-braised pork, chard and green olive – and four meat dishes.

The idea is to slowly morph the somewhat sterile dining room into a more boisterous, fun venue with its outdoor tables – in the voluminous, heritage-listed former postal hall – becoming an indoor piazza where office workers, flaneurs and lovers of la dolce vita can sip aperitifs and eat snacks from Post’s selection of stuzzichini, the Italian version of tapas.

Post is still a very stylish affair, it’s just had some Italian attitude added to the mix. Let the fun begin.