A sensorial trip through the third dimension of Southeast Asian cuisine.

The food of Southeast Asia has long appealed to West Australians, so it’s no surprise that Miss Mi, a Melbourne import helmed by Filipino-born chef Alex De Leon that draws on the food of Vietnam, Thailand, Singapore, Bali, the Philippines, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, China and more, is an instant hit. De Leon knows this topography intimately and presents plates as daring as they are devotional.

Time-spun classics, such as prawn toast, enter a new dimension with flourishes of tangy yuzu and chilli compote, while “street snacks” are equal parts nostalgia and intrigue.

While utterly distinct, each dish (designed to be shared) weaves seamlessly into the next, with hats tipped to the broader Asian larder, from Sichuan to Bangkok. Time-spun classics, such as prawn toast, enter a new dimension with flourishes of tangy yuzu and chilli compote, while “street snacks” are equal parts nostalgia and intrigue: think pillowy prawn and crab dumplings with gem-like caviar, or grilled kangaroo skewers with candlenut crumb.

Besides the avant garde, noble classics are reimagined: lamb-shoulder rendang collapsing from the bone upon a decadent coconut base; grilled cauliflower bejewelled with golden toasted coconut; and a homely Filipino classic of pork and pineapple curry, with an accent of makrut lime. While the wine list could be more ambitious, the innovative cocktails – like the cuisine and décor – are at once sophisticated and disarming. A steady newcomer, with interest aplenty.