Foodies with an Asian bent all but fell over themselves with excitement when Australia’s best (and Michelin starred) Thai chef, David Thompson opened Long Chim in Perth. They were not disappointed. The basement restaurants is all about Thai “street food” and in keeping with the concept, the cavernous dining room is stylishly grungy and, well, “street.”

Curries, larbs, noodles, stir fries and bar snacks are just like the real thing. Some dishes are as hot as hades, but in that sly Thai way where the heat creeps up on you with all the balanced flavoursof chilli, not just heat for heat’s sake.

Two bar snacks stand out – crunchy prawns and cured pork sausage. Both are flavor-bomb addictive and served with fresh herbs, chilies and telltale wok smoke. Hot and sour soup of chicken wings and feet is the very definition of texture and mouth feel underscored by a sour tamarind broth. Ditto a sour orange curry of fish.

You can hear the “pok, pok, pok” of the kitchen’s wooden mortar and pestle, especially when the chefs are making the signature green papaya salad, the best we’ve tasted in Australia – crunchy with peanuts, sour with a fine chop of green papaya, chillis and tomato.

All of the dishes share a profound and balanced flavor profile.

Cocktails are among the best in the city with cocktail guru James Connolly writing a drinks menu with strong south east Asian leanings.

Long Chim has an offshoot, The Tuckshop, which serves inexpensive curries and other dishes for lunchtime worker bees.

Long Chim is Perth’s best Asian restaurant.