A bucolic showcase for one of the state’s most recognised wine brands.
Leeuwin offers its pampered diners several back vintages by the glass; it’s not the only sign of maturity at this iconic Margaret River estate. Britpacker Dan Gedge, now in his fifth year at the helm of the kitchen, seems to have found the holy grail: the intersection of creativity, technique, fine local produce and a canny reading of his audience.
But the bottom line really is that skill and mature ideas make a meal here a perfectly pitched, start-to-finish, tour de force.
In short, the food at Leeuwin has never been better. The subtle melding of apple, raw scallop, crème fraîche, kohlrabi and horseradish, for example, or a memorable snack of baked brioche with cheddar custard and truffle, like bread and butter pudding. Sublime. Given Gedge’s background in the UK with Rick Stein, seafood is a real strength: a hapuku dish with smoky bonito sauce, mussels, leek and finger lime is an absolute standout. Saucing – with mushroom and celeriac – plays its part superbly with local wagyu sirloin too.
But the bottom line really is that skill and mature ideas make a meal here a perfectly pitched, start-to-finish, tour de force. The “three-course” tasting menu with extra snacks, and petit fours, is also outstanding value for money. Service staff know their stuff and the location is idyllic – just a touch more love for the dining room itself would seal it.
