Dunsborough staple with killer plates, and an even better aperitivo and digestivo offer.

The food from Michelle Forbes’ kitchen – from burrata with jammy beetroot through pasta coated in charcuterie sauce – may be as enticing as ever, but what’s increasingly clear at Lady Lola, is that if you don’t have a drink in your hand, you’re doing it wrong. Open with a White Negroni for a more floral rendition on the classic, or a fiery, smoky spin featuring mezcal before moving to Marinela Antonic’s rotating wine list, which puts local organic makers alongside like-minded internationals. Pause to appreciate the vitello tonnato on the plate, the Dua Lipa on the speakers, the Slim Aarons on the wall, then flip to the back pages, where the hefty vermouth and amaro sections reside (Saison black walnut! Sicilian blood orange!) and sink into a bittersweet finish.