Knockout Italian dishes, pizzas and glamour have arrived to enliven well-heeled Dalkeith and western suburbs aspirants.

It’s hard to know where to start at Isoletta. The de Gournay gilded wallpaper mural? The imported Italian brass, marble and mirrors? Or the artisanal Marana Forni, known as the “Ferrari” of wood-fired ovens, all the way from Verona? Then there’s the wine, with nearly 50 different bottles listed above the $300 mark on an extensive list (among, thankfully, more affordable drops).

Sit at the pizza counter and the oven gets a workout right in front of you.

Sit at the pizza counter and the oven gets a workout right in front of you. Pick the Mare, and stunning Shark Bay prawns and calamari adorn a puffy red base with bottarga for added depth. It may well prove to be one of Perth’s most talked-about casual dishes. The strong seafood game continues with a grilled half Geraldton cray, brightened with herbs and citrus. Match it on its own with a McHenry Hohnen chardonnay, or toss it in with a salad of tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and basil.

To finish? The house tiramisù, with superb amaretto notes is an easy pick, but the lemon torte is a knockout, involving yuzu-infused white chocolate, chewy almond meringue, lemon curd and lemon gelato. Happiness on a plate.