Italian hotspot in a glorious beachfront locale.
Chameleon-like, and without any hint of friction, this mainstay of the western suburbs morphs from breakfast canteen for towel-clad swimmers to fine osteria for long lunches and dimly lit dinners. And all while serving primo negroneria for sipping under Campari sunsets. Those who flock here year-round do so for solid Italian fare and a view to the famed Norfolk pine-framed shores of Cottesloe beach. A smartly designed space, it glows in summer as a buzzy shelter from the searing sun and works just as beautifully in winter for richly flavoured cellar-vibe dinners. There’s always a good-natured crowd, so slide into the communal tables and get neighbourly over aperitivo. Limoncello spritz, refreshingly dry, pairs with the salty crunch of olives ascolane. Take a bite out of WA with Shark Bay Scallops in smoky butter, running a chunk of sourdough through cloud-light ricotta piqued with caperberries and tomato powder. Go for the imperial-yellow risotto Milanese with charred tiger prawns or the day’s fish nestled in leeks and kalamata-studded vellutata. The famed Aus-Italian wine list is intimidating in breadth but the staff are not – tell them what you’re looking for and they will happily find it. A few hours soaking up the good aura and, like a chameleon, your colours will change too.
