New York-style deli with ties to Eastern Europe meets a no-waste ethos in delicious style.
As far as commitment to doing things the hard way goes, there are few who go as far as Ethos. Run by Melissa Palinkas and Susan Whelan, who also head nearby sibling Young George, this deli and dining room has a from-scratch attitude built into the very fabric of its being. Dishes are low waste, deli meats are made from scratch, and drinks – like tepache or a Spritz based on strawberry-top liqueur – are designed to use up odds and ends in the tastiest of ways. And that’s where Ethos excels, using its philosophy to drive deliciousness rather than treating it like constraints.
A hot (housemade) pastrami sandwich goes all in on the beef, while a classic Caesar is dressed to impress, with Ethos smoked pork shoulder speck bringing extra layers.
Take a seat in the dining room upstairs and carrot is treated like lox, before being folded onto bagel crisps schmeared with vegan cream cheese and accented with red onion and salty capers. The result? A totally vegan, totally delicious rendition of a New York deli classic. A hot (housemade) pastrami sandwich goes all in on the beef, while a classic Caesar is dressed to impress, with Ethos smoked pork shoulder speck bringing extra layers.
And the crisp-fried langos topped with black garlic cream, Tilsit cheese and pickled onions? Essential eating. There may be nothing fancy about the space, but this is a place that hits hard where it counts: on the plate.