It’s a common rule when dining that you shouldn’t fill up on bread. At Bread in Common, you’ll make an exception. The in-house bakery makes some of the best bread in town, and no meal should start without spreading the famous Common Loaf with one of their flavoured butters.

Executive chef Scott Brannigan’s ever-moving menu is designed for sharing, with ingredients combined in ways and elevated to levels you might not expect, A seemingly simple dish of chicken drumsticks or lamb ribs can take you to unknown territory. And, yes, lamb ribs fans – this storied dish, invented at Bread in Common and copied just about everywhere, remains on the menu. Fatty, charry, juicy-sweet lamb ribs in a puddle of mint sauce and with the flavours of sherry and garlic are outrageously good. Ditto, roasted pork belly with fermented kohlrabi, pear and mustard.

Don’t want meat? We suggest mushrooms with shallots, miso, soya, mustard leaf and blue cheese. (Bear in mind, the menu changes seasonally, so expect some of these dishes not to be on the menu when next you visit. The lamb ribs will never be axed though). Native ingredients are there because they work, not just to stay on trend.

The wine list is considered, and cocktail menu small but worthy of attention. Service is mostly top class, although a little inconsistent. The chefs and bar staff have nowhere to hide, with the fully-open kitchen and bar a mainstay of the atmosphere and aesthetic. Wines and jars of pickled ingredients line the walls, but these aren’t for show; watch for staff literally climbing the walls while you dine.

Weekend breakfast is a similarly classy affair, perhaps a little too fancy for the eggs-and-bacon brigade, with baked goods, sweet and savoury dishes, house-made kombucha and Mano-a-Mano coffee on offer. Sit near the bar and enjoy the warmth and scents of the wood-fired ovens, where the Bread In Common breads are baked.

This warehouse-style restaurant is great for group dining or date night, although it’s walk-in only so you may end up on a communal table. Communal dining may be a bit much for those wanting a quiet night out.