Chef Melissa Palinkas is one of those rare chefs with an eye for invention, without straying into hipster territory. Her dishes are never less than powerfully flavoured and delightful. We first noticed Palinkas when she was head chef at The Cabin in Mount Hawthorne. She was experimenting with ferments and charcuterie making and also sorts of culinary bio-chemistry long before it became the trend it is today.

At any given time, she’ll have house-made coppacola, bresola, mutton cacciatorisausage and truffle mortadella on the charcuterie board. House favourites are the “we can never take it off the menu” beef chop chop nachos tartare and the ½ buttermilk roast chicken with lupin and sweetcorn masala. The kitchen has a massive woodfire oven to call on and many of the dishes are cooked with the aid of fire an jarrah smoke.

The heritage-listed Young George has a wonderful cave-like cellar beneath the bar, where comedy nights are presented and in-the-know locals have their drinks and eats away from the frenetic bar.

Young George is about serious cooking in a neighbourhood bar. Palinkas and her crew plate up some of the most morish, flavour-bomb dishes you’re likely to get anywhere.

Pull up at the bar, order a good wine or a craft beer and spoil yourself with a dish of adobo fried chicken wings.