At Wills Domain, chef Seth James continues to deliver a world-class experience with inventive dishes imbued with delicate flavour. Don’t miss it.
Wills Domain’s Restaurant Of The Year award in 2018 was clearly no fluke. The inventiveness and originality of chef Seth James’ dishes are almost without parallel in Western Australia. And in the past year chef James and his serious-minded, highly skilled team has further cemented a claim to be one of WA’s, and Australia’s, top kitchens.
The food quietly – as in not being shouty or show-offy – displays a high level of technical skill and virtuosity and yet is likeable and approachable. After all there are few, if any, restaurants of this calibre that would have the chutzpah to serve deep-fried potato gems as a side dish.
Wills Domain continues to be one of the finest dining experiences in Western Australia and, from our experience, one of the best dining rooms in the country.
Across the menu, technique marries with respect for produce and a sense of play. This might manifest as an entrée of butter-poached squid for which squid hoods are briefly frozen and then cut into strips before being gently poached in a fermented-rice butter. The offcuts and trim are cooked down to form the base for a cream on which the alabaster white strips of squid sit, then the dish is carefully flooded with a pool of ginger tea. Epic, subtle, imaginative and whole-animal cooking at its finest.
Or it might look like a starter of coral crab served on a congee flavoured with bonito and crowned with a crunchy “furikake” based on crisp pork skin. Salt-roasted celeriac, something of a vegetarian favourite here, is plated artfully and made savoury with salted egg yolk. These are complex dishes which somehow deliver simple, linear flavours.
But, as we well know, a memorable restaurant experience is more than good food and it is the service standards at Wills which also speak volumes about the leadership and training front of house. Service is quietly efficient, cheerful but not cloyingly in your face about it, informed and thoughtful but without being arch or superior.
Simply, Wills Domain continues to be one of the finest dining experiences in Western Australia and, from our experience, one of the best dining rooms in the country.