Dining as a spectacle, backed by smarts on the floor and clear direction on the plate.
As much as Wildflower switches things up by designing its menus around the six seasons of the Noongar calendar, there’s plenty that keeps it grounded. The views over Swan River, for one, remain as stunning as ever. The dining room is still gorgeously appointed, a space that’s serene and centred, with a stunning eucalypt mural on the back wall. And it’s one of the few places in town that still offers cloth napkins, indicating refinement from the very start.
Line-caught pink snapper served on a prawn tartare with an intense bisque sauce is simply the stuff of legend.
As befits its status as a fine-diner – the heritage State Building’s flagship – menus are set, with the offer of four, six or eight courses. Dishes can excite, like an amuse of chickpea panisse with garlic hummus and anise myrtle. Or cause utter delight, such as the chawanmushi, the Japanese-style savoury custard, here served with oyster mushrooms and underpinned by the occasional joyous crunch of pancetta and aromatic slivers of truffle. Line-caught pink snapper served on a prawn tartare with an intense bisque sauce, meanwhile, is simply the stuff of legend.
Even if the timing of pours could be more attuned to the pace of the meal, the wine pairings are elegant and lively. And a chocolate moelleux for dessert, lightened and brightened with mandarin and yoghurt is a stellar finish, befitting the clarity of vision in the room.