A nostalgic yet very Australian nod to the wine bars of metropolitan France, sans les clichés.

What an intriguing corner of Perth this is. On one flank, the natural wine pours at Wines of While. On the other, Vincent Wine, a wine bar, yes, but one that screams “merde” to the cloudy crew across the road by championing classic Euro and Australian wines with a nod to La France.

The collection by the bottle is excellent and Vincent packages it all in a very pleasing style: marble tables, whitewashed walls, old jarrah floors, brass bar, lots of winey ephemera.

Vincent is indeed the nostalgic business of a true Francophile or oenophile who detests natural wine. He admits it. That doesn’t, however, mean commerciality. With bar service to keep prices real and the pace of things yours, not theirs, it could be a Tasmanian riesling, a Mornington Peninsula chardonnay, or a true Burgundy pinot noir. The collection by the bottle is excellent and Vincent packages it all in a very pleasing style: marble tables, whitewashed walls, old jarrah floors, brass bar, lots of winey ephemera.

Of the food, you’ll find the charcuterie world class, generous and made in-house. Chicken liver parfait with plum paste? Mon dieu. Main courses such as pork and veal meatballs with cassoulet beans or “Vincent greens” are fine – and excellent value, too – but tartes tatin or the crème brûlée are absolutely on song, and of course there will be a glass of something outstanding to go with them, probably from France. A delight.