It’s no frills and all thrills at this always-buzzing Malaysian noodle specialist.

Almost everyone will tell you to order the kolo mee at Two Hands – and you definitely should – but the real power move is adding pork liver and a fried egg for a few extra bucks. The former lends iron-rich contrast to the char siu and minced pork in the bowl, while the latter’s runny yolk does well to bind these elements together with the springy, tightly coiled noodles, which are made in-house by hand each day.

Noodles are the star here, whether served dry or in outstanding soups like a Sarawak laksa zinging with curry-fragrant spice and sour prawn broth.

Those noodles, of course, are the star here, whether served dry or in outstanding soups like a Sarawak laksa zinging with curry-fragrant spice and sour prawn broth. Portion sizes are as generous as the prices, making this as much a place for single diners on the run as whole families eager to fill the communal tables with all the extra trimmings. And what trimmings, indeed, from the sticky fried fish wings and even stickier lobak to the well-made traditional three-layer milk tea and lemon tea chasers.

Plan your visit outside of peak time should you not want to queue – but know that even if you end up jostling for space with tradies and aunties, it’s well worth the wait.