A glossy and glitzy, thumping and lively Italian-inspired eatery in the heart of the CBD.

It’s a brave restaurant that can charge $14 for a single scallop, but there’s nothing of the shrinking violet variety at QT’s dark, moody and bustling Italian diner. Neither is there a lot of shyness among the gregarious, boisterous crowd. This is dining at Perth’s flashiest peak.

There’s plenty of people-watching to be had at this one-time WA Good Food Guide Restaurant of the Year; loud groups celebrating over grilled octopus tentacles; retirees in matching sneakers eating pizza Romana with anchovy and capers.

A dish of raw Kalbarri snapper with yoghurt and witlof is a masterclass in execution on the plate, and on the palate.

As staff bark orders in the black-tiled open kitchen, swathes of diners are smacking their lips at sticky Rose Mallee beef short rib, and supping on a wine list that boasts good stuff by the glass including a 2010 Leeuwin Estate Art Series chardonnay for an eye-watering $55 a glass.

There can be slips, too. The white beans under the octopus are a tad starchy, and the rigatoncini doesn’t need duck, and pancetta, and chestnut mushrooms, and breadcrumbs and pecorino to bring it to life. That said, a dish of raw Kalbarri snapper with yoghurt and witlof is a masterclass in execution on the plate, and on the palate.