Big city energy proves a winner at QT’s big hitter.

As you alight the lifts at the first-floor restaurant or venture from the adjoining bar, your first reaction may well be, wow, what a room. The feel of the vibrantly coloured space with opulent yet modern decor, a large frenetic open kitchen at one end, is one thing. But fill it with diners and it’s magic. It has the ebullient personality of a restaurant that’s taken its cues from the Big Apple, and it is rightly popular.

The pasta is a must in some form, the squid ink risotto now something of a signature, while the rigatoncini will pull you back time and again thanks to its rich 12-hour-braised lamb ragu. If you’re here for the grill, take a route to the striploin with a salad for the season and the unholy crisp Italian potatoes, blessed with rosemary and garlic. If you’re a diner with a sweet tooth or, if you only have two courses in you, consider skipping something to finish on the cannoli. Marsala pastry, freshly piped sweet ricotta. Italian yes, but also pure New York.