Sandalford

A capable kitchen and steady service, mark this as one of Western Australia’s most accomplished dining rooms.

As befits a restaurant at one of Western Australia’s most historic wineries, you feel the seasons here. In autumn and winter, the fire is lit and the room feels warm and inviting. In spring and summer, it opens up and takes on an easy, lively energy. Despite its size, the dining room manages to feel cosy year round. One of the most striking aspects of Sandalford is the volume at which it operates, yet the standard of delivery remains consistently excellent. The kitchen shows care, service stays composed, and the experience holds its shape despite the pace. It is a logistical achievement. The menu reads like a greatest-hits of Western Australian producers. Wood-fired cauliflower, with burnt soy butter, roasted garlic tahini, charred lemon, golden raisins, pomegranate, coriander and toasted seeds, delivers depth without heaviness, and shows care for plant-based cooking. Dardanup lamb rump, char-grilled and served with caramelised fennel, sheep’s milk yoghurt, charred baby courgette and lamb jus, is confident, balanced and restrained. Hot tip: don’t miss the roasted porchetta, or perhaps the Peking duck with Morello cherry and liquorice jus. Cheeseboards can feel like an afterthought but here you’re looking at plentiful seeded crackers, glazed cherries, and five cheeses with whipped gorgonzola dolce a stand out. Sandalford succeeds because it understands both its setting and its scale.