A charming New York-style French brasserie is a meeting point for good times and indulgence.

Bustling with conversation, and driven by warm staff, La Lune is easy to settle into and see time slip away. Whether you’re perched on the bar, gathered in an intimate dining space or seated outside on their prominent street-front terrace, the ambience always seems to take hold, with red curtains, marble tabletops, grey-and-white tiles, bentwood furniture and modernist art all adding to the atmosphere.

Food may honour French classics, but it’s brought into the here and now with Western Australian produce at the core.

Owners Sam Davies and Helen Pow draw influence from Paris, but also from New York, and there’s an air of the international about the place. Food may honour French classics, but it’s brought into the here and now with Western Australian produce at the core. Think buttery vols-au-vent filled with a creamy mix of local swimmer crab and celeriac rémoulade. Or steak tartare sharpened with horseradish béarnaise and given depth with cured egg yolk. The kitchen manages to coax extra sweetness from seasonal Brussels sprouts enveloped in hazelnut cream and served with speck, while freshly baked Madeleines are well worth the wait. (And if the burger is on, served with standout frites, our advice is to nab one.)

Drinks are just as much of a draw, with a winning selection of apéritifs and digestifs bookending a largely French wine list, with carafes of naturals changing with the seasons. All the more reason to stick around.