This lively all-day bistro riffs on technically perfect French classics while sidestepping cheesy Gallic cliches.
Perch at the bar in this all-day East Freo brasserie, with its red curtains, marble tabletops, chequerboard-tiled floors and bentwood chairs, and you’ll swear that’s Edith Piaf warbling ‘Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien’ through to the quaint streetscape. It’s more likely to be new Mexican Rockabilly, but that’s the effect a cheeky dubonnet has. Diners are transported to a lively bistro in the Marais while being wooed by top-notch West Australian produce. Bookings are limited to groups of three or more, but walk-ins are warmly encouraged to swing by this 80-odd-seater for pomme frites, featherlight vol au vents and a glass or two of French bubbles. Swing by, they do, seduced by perfectly seasoned coq au vin, crisp-skinned duck leg confit and baked French brie with red wine and honeycomb. Chef Oskar Pinter’s way with steak tartare, along with a tender rare grilled bavette, has garnered a well-deserved following. But, overlook the Shark Bay scallops doused in sherry and fennel butter at your peril. Portions are generous, indicative of the pervading atmosphere in this light-filled space.
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