Elizabeth Quay views and a taste of some of WA’s best produce with hints of woodfire throughout.
Efficient and ordered Hearth is as you’d expect from a brand such as Ritz-Carlton: a fine diner that serves a broad cross-section, from guests who are flexing the corporate card to those celebrating occasions, drawn by its calm, modern pastel-hued design and Elizabeth Quay views. Despite chef changes, the menu retains the same focus on Western Australian produce that was much-vaunted on opening, with most preparations kissed by flame.
Tender, umami-laden Wagin duck breast with sharp rosella jam doesn’t put a foot wrong.
The wine list is worldly, the staff’s suggestions focused westward to labels like Frankland Estate, or the edgier and excellent Dormilona. The service is good, but if it’s a little stiff there’s some flex in the food, at least with à la carte complementing a five-course Taste of Hearth menu.
The latter might kick off with a delicate dish of Shark Bay scallops with roe emulsion and elderflower before moving to robust charred Abrolhos Islands octopus. Tender, umami-laden Wagin duck breast with sharp rosella jam doesn’t put a foot wrong, while a final savoury course of Berkshire pork cutlet with spiced blueberry purée, pink lady apple, coastal greens and sherry jus is given edge with a bitter leaf salad. A little safe? Sure. But it’s refined, the vista is alluring, and there’s enough happening around the edges to hold your interest over a long lunch. Gather round.