A hotel fine diner that imbues the best West Australian produce with a smoky hint.

This flash, almost-waterside diner in The Ritz-Carlton was born when it was imagined as a showcase of everything WA, from the fabrics to the fiano. Hearth also poached a chef, Jed Gerrard, from nearby Wildflower, and the West Australian produce emphasis seemed similar, but here it all has a smoky overtone that plays out from the use of a parrilla-style grill.

Fire-roasted Albany celeriac is enriched with a nutty black barley risotto. Smoked Abrolhos Island scallops with shaved fennel and finger lime is exemplary.

Fire-roasted Albany celeriac is enriched with a nutty black barley risotto. Smoked Abrolhos Island scallops with shaved fennel and finger lime is exemplary. But since the original chef moved on, the energy has waned just a touch. Staff don’t know the product intimately, dishes can seem more contrived rather than inspired, and the feel is more corporate than passionate.

But there’s more than enough here to steer it in the other direction – barbecued pork with Burns Beach abalone and pickled persimmon is magical, the Dellendale camembert ice-cream is a revelation, and if we could have just one dish in life we’d do far worse than the grilled goldband snapper with béarnaise and cabbage. Keep your eyes on the future.