Guy Grossi’s WA outpost stays true to the Roman repertoire, celebrating the classics with admirable restraint.
Housed inside the historic Hibernian Hall in Perth’s east end, this 120-seat restaurant is a favourite for inner-city workers who talk business over an aperitivo and couples who swoon over plates of cacio e pepe. Outside, an al fresco dining setting has European sensibilities and inside, a soaring timber-panelled ceiling is as grand as the open kitchen that operates effortlessly – impressive for a restaurant this size.
Chocolate maritozzi, a classic Roman cream-filled bun, is so good you’ll want it all to yourself.
On the pass are oysters shucked to order, cured meats and Fremantle octopus served Gaeta style with tomato, capers and olives. A skewer of supple ox tongue and lardo pays homage to a fundamental of Roman cuisine, quinto quarto, referring to offal, or the ‘fifth quarter’ of the animal, that Roman butchers typically kept for themselves.
Chilli-spiked bucatini all’Amatriciana is deeply flavourful and pairs with a glass of something red from the well-considered and on-theme wine menu. Mains, such as tender-yet-crisp porchetta with braised red cabbage, are designed to share. Meanwhile, chocolate maritozzi, a classic Roman cream-filled bun, is so good you’ll want it all to yourself.