Some of the city’s best bartenders converge at Foxtrot Unicorn, the city basement bar doing classic and extra in equal measure.

Glide down the stairs into this basement bar, sink into a Chesterfield and order a Cheeky 50/50 Sazerac. As the warmth of rye whiskey, brandy, bitters and absinthe hits, and the notes of Hotel California drift through the air, feel the embrace of a late-night den done right.

But why wait till late? Those truffled mac-n-cheese jaffles and cans of oil-packed Pepus sardines are on from open, when punters are already knocking on the door, eager to nab a seat in a room decorated with dark woods, faded rugs and vintage Perth paraphernalia and match something hefty with a Pineapple Negroni or two.

Glide down the stairs, nab a seat and see some of the best bartenders in town stir Negronis, shake Margaritas and pour Hot Buttered Rums.

Spot the fox wearing a party hat and see the bar’s namesake, the embodiment of the misappropriated NATO alphabet code for FU, giving a figurative two fingers up to the establishment. Except, the establishment is all here. Tom Kearney, Georgia Collins and Shirley Yeung – some of the best bartenders in town – are ably stirring Negronis, shaking Margaritas and pouring Hot Buttered Rums, while Dimitri Rtshiladze, who opened the place in December, oversees the whole show.

Lockdown saw Foxtrot spruik takeaway wines (from a list championing good locals, no less) and bottled cocktails, and they remain for now, adding a take-home element to what’s set to become a true destination. One more for the road? Count on it.