A cosy Italian in leafy Lathlain that hits all the right notes for enjoyment.

Such is the polish at Cosy Del’s, in Perth’s inner south, that you’d normally expect to find it at a CDB address. From arrival, it’s inviting – there’s a central open kitchen and bar, cosy banquettes, and exposed brickwork with al fresco tables out back, which are still popular even on cool nights. But it’s on the plate where the true draw lies, with a Northern Italian-inspired menu of seasonal dishes made to be shared and paired with the boutique wine list. 

It’s on the plate where the true draw lies, with a Northern Italian-inspired menu of seasonal dishes made to be shared and paired with the boutique wine list. 

Standouts include tender char-grilled octopus spiedino with house-cured bacon served with spicy ’nduja oil and lemon-infused cannellini beans. The interplay of smoky, spicy, and citrusy notes balances the textures of succulent octopus and crisp bacon, adding a savoury touch. Charred greens are peppered with creamy ricotta, sunflower seeds, the subtle sweetness of currants and a sprinkle of sumac. 

Larger pasta dishes can either be shared or kept to yourself, and all are made freshly in-house. Think pillowy spinach and ricotta gnocchi with asparagus tossed in a light pesto with stracchino cheese. Or a creative take on spaghetti with beef-cheek ragù featuring a topping of smoked potato purée for you to turn through the spaghetti. Odd? Sure. Delicious? Definitely. Braised lamb neck with earthy cumin labneh and salsa verde is gone too quickly, but it’s just one more reason – along with the Italian-led drinks list – to come back again soon.