Small but perfectly formed, Cosy Del’s is further enliving Lathlain with winning shared plates, live music and a wine list that speaks to the now.

With the impressive Grain Bakery and Laika (Cosy Del’s’ sister venue) just doors aways, the addition of Cosy Del’s has given Lathlain’s small strip even more bang for its buck. An intimate space geared for couples and smaller groups, with some outdoor seating that’s more family friendly, the mantra appears to be to do a few things, but do them well.

The mantra appears to be to do a few things, but do them well.

Shared dishes from a concise menu make their way out from a small open kitchen as soon as they’re ready, more often than not kissed by the hibachi grill. Broccolini, for example, comes charred with ricotta, hazelnut and pickled currants: a triumph of texture, balanced with lemon zest. Half a spatchcock stays juicy and gains interest from an addictively rich “chicken mayo” that’s good enough to bottle. Chestnut and ricotta gnocchi, meanwhile, shows the kitchen give good thought to vegetarian dishes, with Jerusalem artichokes and walnut butter adding extra oomph. The atmosphere matches the style, with appropriate but unobtrusive live music (at least on Thursdays) an unexpected bonus.

Service can hover between attentive and overly casual, but the food consistently steals the show, all the way through to a single dessert: nicely wobbly vanilla panna cotta with plum jam and a pistachio crumble. Add natural-leaning wines from here and the Old World, a good beer selection and a well-priced cheeseboard, and the only thing left to do is secure a seat, unless of course the locals beat you to it.