A sun-soaked riverside locale delivers more than just city views, with a WA-forward menu hitting all the right notes.
Sitting in the dining room at Cooee, sun bouncing off the water, you can’t help but wonder why there aren’t more restaurants along the Swan River. But then maybe it takes the financial backing of Andrew Forrest to pull it off. You can certainly see his influence in the fit-out; the light from the floor-to-ceiling windows spilling onto lush lounges, fine napery giving way to a spotless tiled floor. The clientele fits, too – in walks a besuited local pollie, who then hands his table over to a corporate lunch booking.
Akoya, the flesh warm and tender, has never had better friends than confit fennel and brown butter.
Yes, there are safe picks – spy the classic cocktails and the gin bar – but this isn’t a case of pandering to the professionals. Take the wine list, which is far more ambitious and local than it needs to be. Then there’s the care taken on the food front to bring real interest to local produce. Akoya, the flesh warm and tender, has never had better friends than confit fennel and brown butter. Neatly filleted Albany sardines gain heat and brightness from zhug and capers. Not every dish is a knockout – a pork chop suffers from too long on the grill – but the highs are high, and a pert white chocolate tart brings it home.