A sensational river view, yes, but it’s the modern Australian menu that has everyone talking.
West Australian to its core, Cooee’s menu brims with the likes of tartare using Harvey Beef, and goldband snapper with asparagus. There is nothing show-offy here, albeit the location could demand that from some. The wild mushroom truffle croquettes – crispy golden orbs packed with flavour – show a quiet confidence that the assembled high fliers may appreciate. Same goes for Abrolhos Islands Scallops, plump and tender, luxuriating in a cafe de Paris butter with a touch of lemon and sprinkle of pangrattato. The strength here (apart from an amazing river view) is excellent execution – organic roast chicken with black garlic, celeriac and wild mushroom ragu really is next level. Unlike many West Australian restaurants that aren’t under the shingle of a pub, the presence of Swan Draught on tap (and the given of a good local wine list) is fitting, particularly considering that you’re in the former brewery of a beer that is forever entwined with West Coast culture. Many know the shout of ‘cooee’ as a call for attention, a shrill sound if delivered correctly that cuts through the bush to elicit help. In the Dharug language it means ‘come here’, which is fitting for a restaurant that is hitting its mark.
