Cooee, the riverside restaurant from Twiggy Forrest’s Z1Z hospitality group, matches a contemporary fit-out with a talented team to please all comers, all day long.

Andrew ‘Twiggy’ Forrest has unsurprisingly chosen to celebrate the state’s produce within suitable surrounds – a historic building that was once home to the old Swan Brewery. Now reimagined as a light-filled space lined with Indigenous art and complete with a waterside terrace, it’s the ideal spot to devour WA’s (and Twiggy’s) Leeuwin Coast Akoya oysters, farmed off Albany.

Inside or out, the vibe here is chilled and relaxed, the offerings simple and accessible, the service charming and attentive, and the view of the Swan River nothing short of spectacular. Start with a crowd-pleasing smoky eggplant purée served with rosemary-studded focaccia, then move onto roast pork belly with togarashi crackling and pomegranate.

Now reimagined as a light-filled space lined with Indigenous art and complete with a waterside terrace, it’s the ideal spot to devour WA’s (and Twiggy’s) Leeuwin Coast Akoya oysters, farmed off Albany.

A highly marbled Rose Mallee wagyu Scotch fillet is just the ticket if you’re after a textbook-perfect steak: grill marks on the exterior, the tender flushed pink hue revealed with the gentle glide of a knife. The drinks offering is extensive, from a wine list leaning heavily towards pet nats to gins from coast to coast and non-alcoholic options.

As for the Akoyas? Cooked confit-style in herb oil and served on the shell with saltbush and caviar-like pearls of tart apple jelly, they might just be within cooee of becoming the venue’s signature dish.