Chow’s Table, found on the House of Cards site just off Caves Road, may share the vineyard views of its wine-country counterparts, but chef Mal Chow is on a different course.

Yes, he’s in Yallingup, a stone’s throw from Arimia and Wills Domain, the restaurant surrounds are modern, but Chow, despite his fine-dining background, hasn’t felt the need to overplay his hand. Taking direction from his Chinese-Malay roots, Chow delivers cooking that’s technically accomplished, vibrant and leans on great produce without getting ahead of itself.

There’s an immediate homeliness and comfort to his menu, with the likes of Shark Bay prawn har gao, flaky roti, and a nod to the parts less celebrated: offal lovers see his book tripe scented with chilli oil and black vinegar that’s equal parts spicy, sharp and funky and rejoice.

Chow also knows how to play the hits, be it a fried rice loaded with egg, shiitake mushroom and sweet sausage that steps well up from a supporting role, or classically rendered roast duck. His mapo tofu, meanwhile, made on a not-so-traditional egg custard and humming with Sichuan pepper, is rightly set to repeat.

Since reopening, Chow’s has shifted to set-menu only, the banquet made to share and complemented by a cellar that doesn’t merely spruik House of Cards, but showcases the more leftfield likes of Marq, Blind Corner and South by Southwest. After a broader view of Margaret River? A seat at Chow’s Table is one to cherish.