One of the best situated restaurants in Perth, Bib & Tucker seems almost to hover over the wide, white expanse of Leighton Beach. It’s testament to its cooking however that this most beachy and summery of restaurants is chock full on cold, rainy, mid-week winter days. And for good reason.

Former Olympic swimmer Eamon Sullivan and head chef Scott Bridger are a team to be reckoned with. Food, drinks, service standard, décor – it’s all pretty much seamless. Service is brisk and friendly and often pressed when the going gets tough. The wine list is concise and appropriate for the casual vibe. There are beehives on the roof which supply the business with oodles of clear, aromatic honey.

Food production centres around a large grill topped barbecue pit and a wood fired oven. Bridger sources vegetables from a community garden project and champions local producers. The kitchen makes its own ferments and pickles and sour doughs at its East Fremantle production kitchen.Fish tacos are standard stuff: deep fried fish in a soft tortilla with char-grilled corn and avocado.

With an industrial strength rotisserie over the fire pit and on public display it would be a pity not to use it. And they do. Rotisserie chicken with spiced carrot and puffed wild rice ticks every box. Moist, crusty, charred chicken; soft, smashed carrot, the crunch of puffed rise and the heat and unction of harissa yoghurt.

There are pizzas, a burger, fish and chips, a charcoal-grilled steak and good woodfired vegetable dishes.

Bib & Tucker is a festive restaurant; busy, always pumping with noise and bonhomie and somewhat hedonistic. And in summer when the restaurant spreads out on to its beach-side deck and the cocktails are flowing, there are few better places in Perth.