Chefs work nights when everyone else is dining out, so their own meals happen on the sly, usually on days off somewhere loud, cheap and unpretentious. Forget the tasting menus and the wine pairings. When the pass finally clears and the apron comes off, these chefs are more likely to be found queuing for ramen, splitting a pasta special, or working through a plate of banchan.
Where a chef chooses to eat on their own dime tends to be significant in the world of safe and solid recommendations; the broth that has been laboured over for hours, the burger that turns up exactly the same way every single time, the bakery queue that forms before the doors even open.
We asked WA chefs, from Perth to Busselton to Margaret River, where they go when no one is watching, and what they order when they get there. The answers ran from tonkotsu ramen at forty degrees to a family run tavern pasta night that sells out by eight, all of it under thirty dollars a head. Here is what they told us, in their own words.
Nick and Ria, Suku
Tosaka Ramen, Northbridge, White Tori Paitan Ramen
“This is the best ramen we’ve had so far, even rivalling the joints we’ve visited in Japan. It’s run by an incredibly hardworking husband and wife team. The chicken chashu is exceptionally juicy and tender, and the broth is wonderfully creamy and rich.”
Robert Webster, owner and chef
Banksia Tavern, Busselton, pasta night
“When I make it up from Margs to Busselton, it’s the best pasta in the South West, hands down, and only twenty five dollars on Wednesdays. It’s a steal, and a glass of wine with it is ten dollars. Good luck just ordering pasta though, everything they put out is fantastic, and I’ll probably end up having the steak frites too, or whatever seafood Laura’s made.”
Cam Jones, Vasse Felix
Margaret River Brewhouse, cheeseburger roti or chicken wings
“A pretty common sneaky night out for me is walking down to Margaret River Brewhouse with the dog. That way he gets a walk and I get to see if they have any new beers on tap. After a beer or two it’s hard to go wrong with the roti or the chicken wings, if you don’t mind a saucy smile afterwards.”
Navarre Top, Head Chef, Double Rainbow
Tosaka Ramen, Northbridge, toripaitan
“Just a plain shopfront on William Street, no fuss, just a line of eager people waiting. That toripaitan broth is hours of patient reduction, cooked fresh to order, no ego, nothing to negotiate. One broth, done properly, with a couple of honest variations built around it, and the confidence to leave it at that. It’s something you can’t beat on a cold winter night.”
James Cole-Bowen, Head Chef, Gibney
The Corner Dairy, Doubleview, steak tartare fries
Beaconsfield Wine Bar, crumbed minced pork
“Classic beef tartare with Stirling Ranges beef, hot chips and peppery mayo. What’s not to love. A close second is the crumbed minced pork with char siu sauce, soft white bread, wombok and kewpie from chef Kyo Kim at Beaconsfield Wine Bar. Amazing bite, try not to order five more.”
Changwoo Ryu, Executive Chef, Tigerfish and Cottesloe Beach Hotel
Tiger Baekban, Willetton, the set menu
“As a Korean, I really appreciate this spot. Unlike a lot of other cuisines in Australia, Korean food typically comes with a variety of side dishes, banchan, included. I love that there’s a wide range of menu options, and having those side dishes served alongside makes for such a satisfying and complete meal.”
Justin Scarvaci, Head Chef, Vinotto
Teeter Bakery, East Perth, Quiche Lorraine
“For under thirty dollars, I’m heading to Teeter Bakery. The technique and flavour profiles are the best in Perth. The service is excellent, and sitting outside in the sun eating the most perfect quiche Lorraine is an absolute treat.”
Ari Mazzer, Head Pastry Chef, Goods Bakery
Yip, East Victoria Park, house made egg noodles with char siu barbecue pork
“I can’t get enough of the house made egg noodles with char siu barbecue pork from Yip in East Victoria Park. Yip’s thin egg noodles have enough bite to hold their own against the char siu pork, and together they’re a textural delight. Not to mention the broth is faultless. Simple elements, perfectly executed, a truly healing bowl.”
Gabriel Riveria, sous chef, Masa Mesa
Hifumiya Udon Noodle House, Perth, spicy miso pork udon
“Spicy miso pork udon from Hifumiya. It’s a mild spice noodle bowl full of umami, and the texture of the hand made noodles is soft, chewy and consistent every time. I never get sick of it and always look forward to the next bowl.”
Bac Pham, owner and chef, North 54
Ongrill, Perth, build your own bibimbap
“I love this little Korean joint Ongrill on the corner of Bulwer Street. They do custom bowls of bibimbap and I love building my own, a base of rice or potato noodles, a protein, my go to is the soy chicken, and there are so many toppings on offer like caramelised kimchi, onsen eggs, tobiko and even diced watermelon. You can also mix your own sauces, I do a combination of soy cham dressing and spicy gochujang.”
Danny Sanchez, Executive Chef, Gage Roads Freo
Ageto Ramen, Willetton, Ichi Ramen with King Top
“I love smashing the ramen at Ageto Ramen in Willetton on the regular. I upgrade my Ichi Ramen with the King Top. This roasted garlic tonkotsu warms the soul, fills the belly and treats the tastebuds to a genuinely good time.”
Stuart Laws, owner and chef, Fallow
Jon Kopitam, Perth, laksa
“The laksa at Jon Kopitam is my go to on a Monday and Tuesday. It’s quick, the soup is rich, and it’s only twenty five dollars. No frills, sit down, eat, and get out.”
Constanza ‘Connie’ Jimenez, Head Chef, La Cabana
Oishii Ramen and Kimchi Perth, Myaree, Suku, Capri Restaurant and Brazilian Steak House, Fremantle
“On my days off you’ll find me at Hulme Court in Myaree, where I go to the Asian supermarkets and always try to stop at Oishii Ramen for my usual order, tonkotsu or spicy miso ramen. It’s a family business with great food and service. I did a ramen class in Japan, and after that I couldn’t live without ramen, even in forty degree heat.”
“If Oishii Ramen is closed I get three small sides next door from Kimchi Perth, spicy pork, cucumber kimchi and fermented tofu, and cook Hainanese rice at home to go with them.”
“If I’m in Freo, I go to Suku and order the Nasi Bali with a Bintang for thirty dollars, it’s a perfect meal. The food is tasty with traditional flavours, and I’ve been eating there since they opened in the Fremantle Markets. Now they’re at FOMO with the same quality and service.”
“Capri Restaurant does a lovely spaghetti aglio e olio that comes with the soup of the day, bread and butter. It reminds me of my grandmother’s cooking, simple and reasonably priced.”
“And if I feel like something more Latin American, I order a Brazilian prato feito at Brazilian Steak House, medium rare steak, rice, chips, salad and the best feijoada with farofa. It’s the perfect combination. After eating that dish you can say panza llena, corazon contento, full belly, happy heart.”
Fendi Bong, Head Chef, The Good Paddock
North 54, Leederville, crispy pork banh mi
“I love to grab a crispy pork banh mi from North 54. The pork skin is really crunchy, and they have a secret sauce I can’t quite explain, I just keep going back for a second and third bite. The coriander salsa and their house pickle add their own take on the combination.”
Matt Mills, Head Chef, Bistro Massilia
Local Bird, Tuart Hill and Francoforte, Northbridge
“Ever since I moved to Perth, the OG Bird Burger from Local Bird in Tuart Hill has been a firm favourite, probably one of the best burgers in town. It’s great comfort food for winter nights. Francoforte in Northbridge is always a great spot for date night, and the carbonara always hits. Being BYO means I can bring a nice Nebbiolo too.”