He’s known internationally as a chef at the forefront of sustainable hospitality, and now executive chef at some of the Northern Rivers most well-regarded venues, but Matt Stone still has a place in his heart, and arguably his stomach, for Western Australia. Raised here, it’s where he started his career two decades ago. He tells WAGFG editor Max Brearley, where he’s headed to when he touches down in the west.
Is there a place that you just have to return to when you’re back in WA?
That would have to be Lulu La Delizia for sure. I don’t get there every time I come back, but it’s definitely one that I try to. The food is always delicious. Joel [Valvasori] is a buddy, so it’s always nice to go there and see the evolution of the restaurant from when it opened to now. You still see a lot of the same team in the kitchen, which is testament to a great restaurateur. The hospitality is great, the high level of service, and the high quality, thoughtfully curated wine list.
Lulu La Delizia
Any newer finds on recent visits that are edging into your rotation of favourites?
On my last few visits I’ve popped into Casa. I really love the food that Paul does. It’s my kind of place, with a nice wine list and it’s bar food but then behind the scenes there’s a lot of technique and great ingredients. Understated but then over delivering with the food is how I’d describe it. I didn’t know Paul [Bentley], but when he popped back up again in Perth we connected via social media, and we’ve ended up hanging out a little bit when I’m over. I think he’s a great chef.
I’d also say Casa Pizzeria just next door to Casa. I thought it was epic. We’ve got a pizza shop (Ciao, Mate! in Bangalow), so I’m always having a look at that. Really great dough to begin with, they’ve got that modern approach that you wouldn’t stereotype as Naples or American style dough. It’s that hybrid of a sourdough but still quite light and crisp, so you can eat a fair bit of pizza without overfilling. Then there’s really interesting toppings and combinations; some kind of untraditional ones which I quite like. It’s the same sort of idea for us, having a pizza shop and not being Italian, we don’t claim to be cooking authentic Italian food by any means. So, it’s nice to see those sorts of riffs, adapting to local ingredients that are really yummy and putting them on pizza.
Casa
What advice do you give to people travelling to WA whether for the first time or as a return visitor?
Make time to get to the South West, even for a couple of days. I think it’s quite an achievable thing these days with the highways, that you can go for two or three nights now, whereas over ten years ago it was a bit different.
It’s a shame that Alberta’s is no longer in its restaurant life (now running workshops and private dining) but I really enjoyed the Busselton Pavilion and the adjoining South West Wine Shop. I thought that’s a great way for people that don’t have time to get to all the wineries in the region to get a nice overview of some really great wine.
As for the pub, I love it. For us, we have a pub (Eltham Hotel) as well, so seeing those high-volume venues churning out thoughtful, considerate, ethical food, is great. I feel like Brendan [Pratt] and the team are playing off the classics and adapting to the area and the climate. It’s the kind of place I’d eat at on my days off every week if I lived up the road.
South West Wine Shop at Busselton Pavilion
Are there any WA winemakers that you’re always looking out for?
Nic Peterkin at LAS Vino would probably be my first pick. I think his wines are awesome. Technically they’re amazing but the ethic behind them and how he’s done them is beautiful. There’s also Blind Corner, in terms of their farming techniques, the way they’re making wine, sustainability, but also on the affordability front their wines are approachable. Deservedly, at a lot of the big houses, the cost is way up there whereas I feel like Blind Corner are a bit more approachable in that regard. And I’m always going to visit Cullen Wines as well. It’s just, you know, the history there of sustainable winemaking and biodynamics fostered by Vanya Cullen.
Matt Stone & Vanya Cullen
Your career began in Margaret River. Is there still quite a pull to dining where you started out?
Whenever I get down to Margs, I’ve got to get back to Leeuwin Estate. That’s where I started cooking twenty plus years ago. It’s still lovely to see the estate founders. the Horgan family, and just to see that place evolve. It’s always been very prestigious of course, but it’s done a really great job at staying modern. The food under Dan Gedge is awesome. I cooked lunch down there about two years ago now and I was still blown away with the produce. To sit on that deck and try some of the world class wines and lovely food, it’s a really special place for me.
Leeuwin Estate
And are there special WA ingredients that you love to see on a menu whether here in WA or elsewhere?
If you’re visiting from overseas, or even from the east coast, I think you have to eat marron. That’s a uniquely West Australian thing. We do see it in the east but not very often, and so I think that’s a must try. Also, the scampi roe from up in the north of WA. After many years, I recently revisited it for an event that I did, and it’s bloody delicious.
Blue Ridge Marron
