When Hearth’s Brian Cole steps into the Margaret River dining room of de’sendent for Cabin Fever, it isn’t a meeting of opposites. Both chefs share an almost evangelical commitment to WA produce, to the farmers and growers behind it, and to letting that story lead the plate. What follows is a conversation about collaboration, complexity, and what it means to cook with genuine reverence for place.
Brian, you’re known for the fire-driven, produce-first philosophy at Hearth. How does that translate when you’re stepping into someone else’s kitchen and working alongside Evan Hayter’s vision for de’sendent?
Evan and I share the same mindset. It’s all about WA produce, hyperlocal sourcing, and building real relationships with the farmers, growers and producers behind the food. That common ground makes collaboration straightforward, because we’re both driven by the same desire to showcase what this state has to offer.
Margaret River and Perth have distinct food cultures. Did working with local producers here shift how you approached the menu, or did you arrive with a clear direction already in mind?
I’m going in with a vision of honouring the region and the people who grow and produce what we’ll be using. Everything needs to be treated with integrity. And to do that well, you have to highlight the stories and faces that are usually attached to the produce, not just the ingredients themselves.
Collaboration dinners can go one of two ways: a genuine creative back-and-forth, or a polished handshake. What does the dynamic actually look like between you and Evan in the kitchen?
For this one, I think it’ll be a genuine learning experience, finding out how to bring my style of cooking into conversation with Evan’s vision and the region as a whole. de’sendent has become such an institution and a Margaret River favourite. I’ll be learning from Evan about what shapes the food culture here and how it’s been built.
The non-alcoholic pairing is increasingly a serious offering rather than an afterthought. How much thought went into making sure that experience held its own?
It needs to capture a guest’s attention from the first sip to the last. The same complexity, body and flavour as the wine pairing, if not more. There’s no reason it should feel like second best.
Cabin Fever is building a reputation for events that feel genuinely special. What made this the right moment for you to say yes?
Honestly, I’ve been wanting to cook alongside Evan since Truffle Kerfuffle years ago, so when the opportunity came up I couldn’t say no. I was more excited than I’d like to admit. His approach to produce and farmer-driven ethos aligns so closely with what I do at Hearth, and to bring those two things together in his beautiful restaurant felt like exactly the right moment
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