Known for its extravagant omakase and over-the-top menu—who’s up for a kilo of caviar?—Papi Katsu was once the go-to for special occasions.
But the venue has recently shifted gears, introducing an express lunch menu and a Carbonara Udon dish that’s proving impossible to resist.
WAGFG Managing Editor Anna Franklyn caught up with Head Chef Shane Middleton to discuss Papi Katsu’s new direction, the must-try dishes, and what’s next for the Sesh Mafia group.
What inspired this shift away from special-occasion-only dining to a more accessible take on modern Japanese?
I think we’re in a time and age now where everyone has to be more mindful of what they’re spending. Interest rates are soaring, and people are being more intentional about where their money goes. It’s not that the special occasion concept doesn’t work, but we wanted to create a space that’s more approachable—a venue where everyone feels welcome.
Of course, there’s still a place for special occasion venues, but as a business, we decided to find a balance. That’s what we’re aiming for here: accessibility without compromising on quality. We’re still serving top-notch food, but we’re getting more creative with different cuts and ingredients that might not always be used.
There’s a playfulness in the new menu—quite a departure from your style at 6Head. Is this more your style?
Yes and no. I’ve spent most of my career in fine dining, being trained by Steve Clarke, who at the time ran one of Perth’s top restaurants. It was a different world to what I grew up knowing but I embraced it, finding the intricacies and process inspiring. However, comfort food, the familiar kind, has always resonated with me.
Growing up, it wasn’t about the bells and whistles; it was about food that made us feel full in our bellies and hearts. People relate to comfort food, and there’s something nostalgic about it. I try to bring that feeling, but with a twist to dishes people come to know and love, or introduce people to something new in a way that’s accessible. I love being able to do that!
Let’s talk about the Carbonara Udon—it’s gone viral in Tokyo and New York, and now it’s landed at Papi Katsu. What drew you to this dish, and what makes your version uniquely Papi Katsu?
When something goes viral, you want to jump on it before it’s everywhere. We started seeing videos of this Carbonara Udon popping up, and one of our team members who visited Japan told us how crazy it was—lines out the door. It’s fun, it’s different, and it fits the vibe of Papi Katsu.
Our version takes inspiration from the Italian classic, but we put our own spin on it. Instead of traditional pasta, we use udon noodles, which is a bold move, and we use a cream base, so we pack a lot of flavour into that cream sauce. We’ve kept the essence of Carbonara—the egg yolks, the pecorino, the parmesan and the pepper—but we’ve elevated it with some Japanese techniques.
The dish has a bit of an umami kick from the Japanese ingredients we add. We also use smoked belly bacon instead of the typical guanciale, so you get these melt-in-your-mouth bites of fat. We also finish it with an egg yolk gel for some extra richness and pack it with pecorino on top. It’s cheesy, creamy, and decadent—like a heart attack on a plate, but in the best way possible.
How’s the response been so far?
We’ve had nights where we sell up to 50 portions in one evening! Normally, we’re serving around 15 to 20 portions of any given dish, so it’s been a huge hit. People come in specifically for the Carbonara, and that’s been great. It’s a bit of a challenge during peak times—because the dish takes time to prepare, especially with the sauce, which takes about six hours to reduce. The noodles are cooked to order, and everything has to come together at the right moment. So even though it looks like a simple bowl of creamy noodles, there’s a lot of work that goes into it.
Talk us through the new express lunch, what’s on offer?
We’ve got six different options for lunch, and it’s all about keeping it fresh and satisfying without taking too much time. We’ve got a couple of poke bowls—salmon, tuna, with a little sashimi bowl—plus lunch trays that are like a throwback to school cafeterias, but elevated. We’ve got traditional chicken katsu, braised beef short rib, and cauliflower karage. All served with a cabbage and sesame salad, miso soup, edamame, and sushi.
It’s really good value—ranging from $28 to $36—and we offer a drink for an extra five or ten bucks. The response has been fantastic. It’s been great for the office crowd, especially on Fridays and Thursdays. We’ve served up to 100 lunches in one day. It’s a great way for people to grab a quick, satisfying meal without compromising on quality.
Benny Tua is back behind the bar. What’s your creative relationship like, and what drinks should we absolutely not miss?
Benny’s back, and it’s great to have him here. He’s not just slinging drinks—he’s also mentoring the new staff and keeping the vibe fun. We really work well together; Benny’s got his creative flair, and I bring the food. He’s the kind of guy who’s hands-on with everything, and it really shows. People love seeing the owner actively involved, and it’s created a lot of respect from the team.
As for drinks, the Papi Slipper cocktail is a must-try. It’s a crowd-pleaser. The Yuzu Highball is also great. And if you’re after something classic, you can’t go wrong with our sake list—Ben does an exceptional job with that.
We’re also creating a new cocktail list at the moment, which will be launching soon.
You’ve also recently brought Masahiro Hisaeda on board as sous chef. How has he shaped the omakase experience?
Masa is a fantastic addition to the team. He oversees the omakase, and his deep respect for seafood and the craft is evident in everything he does. His attention to detail and connection with guests brings a calm, focused energy that really elevates the experience. We’re excited to see how the menu evolves with him, especially when he returns from Japan and we launch a new, more approachable menu with around 10 to 11 courses instead of 16.
What’s something on the menu people might be sleeping on?
Right now, we’ve got a really beautiful dry-aged rankin cod. We dry-age it for a couple of days to get that crispy skin, and we serve it with some baby courgettes and a rich black sesame, mirin and soy sauce. It’s perfect for the colder weather. It’s hearty but refined, and it’s a dish that’s really satisfying.
What drew you to Papi Katsu—and to Japanese cuisine—coming from a venue like 6Head?
Ben has always wanted me to join his team. He approached me a couple of years ago, but at the time, I wasn’t ready. When they reached out again, they had the omakase offering—16 courses, serving seven people a night, and that is my forte. Japanese cuisine was something I hadn’t worked with before, but it was a challenge I was ready for.
The beauty of it is in its simplicity, respecting the produce and flavours. We work with some of the best Japanese ingredients, but we also support local producers from WA and around Australia. It’s all about paying respect to the ingredients and having fun with it. I speak to my suppliers every day about what they’ve got, what’s the freshest, what’s coming up, what can’t we do, and we just have fun with it while still paying respect to the term omakase which translates to “leave it up to the chef”.
The Sesh Mafia team is busy with Papi Katsu, Shui, Lupes and Margots all running at full force. Any new venues, pop-ups, or exciting projects on the horizon?
We’ve got some exciting projects coming up. I can’t say too much, but we’re working on a new venue that’ll be part of the group. It’s going to be in Claremont, and it’s going to be something completely different—a more high-end offering, but still casual and approachable. It’s going to be a big project, but we’re all very excited about it.
We’ve also got an approachable Italian diner, Roma Robbie’s, opening next to Margot’s, as well as Larry’s, a take on a charcoal chicken joint, set to open in Subiaco, both set to open in July.
Keep up to date with all the new openings and latest WA food news with Off Menu.