Age-old comfort elevated by noodle master Erich Wong’s traditional bamboo pole techniques.

There’s a reason why traditional handcrafted techniques are passed from generation to generation: they yield superior, artisanal products for those willing to make the effort. Using a traditional bamboo pole to press his dough, Erich Wong makes some of Perth’s best handmade egg noodles – firm yet springy, it’s all about the texture. Noodles may be the star here but an early detour to handmade dumplings or wontons is its own reward. Go for set pieces like a black pepper chook mee, and build your own bowl to taste. Choices abound – thick or thin noodles, in soup or dry in light or dark sauce, with plenty of proteins and condiments offered – and this Malaysian-Chinese world becomes your oyster. You might try thin noodles with the chef’s signature char sui, a succulent caramelised indulgence, in a spicy laksa soup. Sweet, savoury and with plenty of kick. Accompanying drinks are more often sweet to complement the dishes – a velvety, hot teh tarik or a refreshing iced lemon tea. Alcohol is absent though BYO wine is fine. You’ll find service is buoyant and Wong keeping a watchful eye as fresh bowls are presented, tables are turned, and lines at the counter reduce in swift fashion. With all this energy, and a loyal following, Yip retains its bustling persona.