A regional stalwart from a veteran chef that hits its marks for elevated yet approachable dining.

With Yarri, Lady Lola and Blue Manna neighbouring each other, this sleepy strip in Dunsborough may well be the regional town’s most delicious per square metre. Yarri is the more refined of the three, but the food still stays focused on enjoyment over fuss, and flavour over frippery.

The menu nods to local regional produce, the Noongar calendar and organic estate-grown produce (Yarri shares its owner with Wilyalbrup’s Snake + Herring, whose wines make up the pairing option), before presenting a set-price three-course offer at a generous $74.

The menu nods to local regional produce, the Noongar calendar and organic estate-grown produce, before presenting a set-price three-course offer at a generous $74.

A seafood starter might equal raw kingfish given a Japanese edge with shiso leaves, sesame and a gutsy tare infused with fish bones. Main courses (a choice of two) land a little more rustic with the odd flourish bringing interest. Think lamb rump with pearl couscous, pureéd carrot and white anchovies, or Rankin cod with cured egg yolk and tomato dashi.

The team is young, the room – bright, modern, spacious and furnished smartly with comfortable chairs – has energy, and missed details in some dishes aren’t significant enough to dampen the mood. Especially when the almond cake with honey foam and perfectly poached rhubarb hits such a high to finish.