There are diners who swear they have had an epiphany while eating the dishes and basking in the warm glow of the restaurant’s elegant space. And it does ooze generosity of spirit while speaking volumes about the kitchen’s respect for indigenous produce and the foraging traditions of the first nations peoples who once roamed the region.

There’s no doubting the sincerity of chef and co-owner Aaron Carr’s sense of place and commitment, especially when it comes to sourcing indigenous herbs, plants and grasses for his dazzling modern Australian plates.

The former executive chef at Vasse Felix is smashing out wood-grilled marron, venison and sardines with dashes of Japanese here and lots of bravura cookery. Case in point. Who would have thought you could deliberately burn a humble cabbage and with the addition of miso and buckwheat, turn it into a stunning dish.

His plates are elegant and meant to share and many are touched with Carr’s signature use of Japanese techniques and ingredients.

Carr’s co-owners, the team from local winery, Snake and Herring, look after front of house and the wine list –  an unashamed ode to their own wines but with offerings from Vasse Felix, Leeuwin Estate, Lenton Brae and Juniper Estate as well as some excellent European and interstate drops.

Yarri is kicking some serious culinary goals and all this in a decidedly unsexy site between a creek and a carpark. When you’re this good, you don’t need a winery view.