Respectful cooking of regional produce continues to prevail at this Dunsborough stalwart.

After all these years, chef Aaron Carr still has a clear and simple focus on good produce and even better cooking. Three- or six-course menus can at first feel limiting, but quickly their seasonality and the kitchen’s approach to peak flavour extraction comes to fruition.

House-smoked trout is delicate, with magnified savouriness thanks to fresh horseradish, countered by sweet, crisp, raw and blanched asparagus. A miso and black garlic butter vies for dominance with its accompanying slab of expertly charred beef while a sweet, sticky carrot marmalade is served alongside Halls Family Dairy’s award-winning Suzette. Want to know more? Saddle up at the kitchen bar and chat with engaged chefs in complete control of their busy service, more than willing to chat ingredients and process. By-the-glass wine pours are from part owners, Snake & Herring, while cocktails are a dark horse. Yarri remains a solid in-town alternative to winery dining.

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