Perched at the heights of Ron Wise’s vineyard, Wise Wine has a commanding, eagle eyed view of the forests and coastline of Meelup. If you can take your eyes off the views, inside the restaurant, there is serious artistry going on in Ben Jacob’s kitchen.

Pumpkin brulee tart, with a generous dollop of stracciatella, comes with a side “forest” of sliced pumpkin and beach herbs. Cauliflower panna cotta is decorated with raisins, almonds and an enormous, delicately woven wafer.

As beautiful as Jacob’s food is, it is more than simply Insta-worthy food. This small but thoughtful menu delivers one flavour bomb after another. 

Underneath suitably crispy skin, goldband snapper melts in the mouth, while mandarin slices cut through the glorious fat of a Szechuan-glazed confit duck. A side of greens will silence Brussels sprout critics – maple bacon and pecorino take the little cabbage to another level.

The five-course “feed me” chef’s menu is great value, and there’s a decent casual offering. Service is just the right side of solicitous, with plenty of good advice for the undecided.

A word to the wise: this place sings over summer but give it a go in winter, too. With a blazing open fire, a tasting plate for two and a bottle from the winery’s stellar range, Wise will warm the soul and lift the spirits.