Perth’s foremost proponent of natural wines adds interest with engaged staff and a food offer that kicks all kinds of goals.

There’s a particular pleasure to drinking at Wines of While. Maybe it’s in the crowd, a mix of Perth’s hippest, most fashion-forward twentysomethings camping on the footpath tables and wine aficionados with an interest in natural drinking. Or maybe it’s the fact that this small bar up the far end of William Street is one of the city’s most appealing spots to while away an afternoon over snacks made by fine cooks and drinks poured from whatever’s open and on ice.

Odds are one glass will become two, and snacks will turn into dinner.

That might mean fruit-driven lambic beer from Belgium, Adelaide Hills rosé made from a blend of pinot noir and syrah, or an unfined, organic white from avant garde French producer Sylvain Bock. Wine nerd or not, friendly staff are on hand to offer tastes and guide you through it, steering you to a table with a suggestion to start with the (excellent) house bread and whipped butter, then to add a plate of white beans that come creamy and tender and topped with lemon zest. 

Odds are one glass will become two, and snacks will turn into dinner, when a plate of braised oxtail with black olives and gremolata or plump agnolotti stuffed with potato and parmesan hit the spot. A place for long nights, exploration in the glass and good times that flow freely.