An unprepossessing home to all things natural in the world of wine and some surprisingly tasty, unpretentious food. 

If the foot traffic of William Street constitutes a broad church, WoW’s cult following is more pigeonholed, defined by a lust for low-fi and natural wines. If you’re here for a drink, you tend to know exactly what you’re after – or, perhaps, what you’re not after: the predictable or mainstream.

A classic Victorian double-fronted shop-space fixed up with more dash than cash, WoW operates like a bohemian enoteca, each bottle marked with take-home and drink-in prices. These range from obscure – Jauma’s blend of chenin blanc, muscat à petit grains and carbonic macerated grenache, say – to the more accessible – 2019 Partida Creus BB, perhaps.

If you’re here for a drink, you tend to know exactly what you’re after – or, perhaps, what you’re not after: the predictable or mainstream.

Wines by the glass change often, but it’s a tight list, backed by the kind of knowledge you’d expect of such a specialised business. And if the drinks play a hard line, the food softens the edges. What’s not to like about superb burrata with zingy passata, Olasagasti anchovies and great dark-crusted bread, for example? Or a lean, acidic beef tartare with egg yolk and cardamom crisps? Super tasty and completely unpretentious, especially when eaten out on the street.

Add the integrity and commitment to broadening horizons, and you can’t help but respect – and enjoy – the mission.