Those that believe wine bars should be romantic and candle-lit might struggle with the cool approach taken by Wines of While. A pared-back Northbridge bottle shop with tables and a short daily-changing blackboard of Mediterranean-inspired snacks and dishes.

The wines are all ‘low intervention’ – natural and organic – and you could say the same thing about the service, with no reservations, no table service and everything ordered at the bar where – oddly – glasses are placed on scales for a pedantically accurate pour.

None of which should distract from the fact that, if the new wave wines are your thing, they have an excellent 200-strong selection of bottles that do fresh, fermented and funky that features unconventional producers from WA to Georgia in Eastern Europe and many stops in between.

The undeniable quality of the terse menu is largely down to the quality of the shopping, as in finely shaved charcuterie or cheese served in perfect condition at the perfect temperature, while terrines, pastas and desserts are proof of a kitchen in possession of ample technique and skill.