A lovely Old World-meets-New wine bar that adds yet another option to Perth’s already delicious Royal.
The reborn Royal was already the reimagined city pub you wanted to see and be seen at before Willi’s. The balcony, the maze of rooms upstairs, the cute venue-within-a-venue of Fleur – it’s all done with style and urbane cool.
It shows nerve on the part of proprietor John Parker to – relatively early in The Royal’s new life – dump the traditional corner bar and reinvent the space as a wine-centric, food-focused informal gathering place.
It shows nerve on the part of proprietor John Parker to – relatively early in The Royal’s new life – dump the traditional corner bar and reinvent the space as a wine-centric, food-focused informal gathering place.
It’s old, new and raffish, with an elegant and slick menu from executive chef Chase Weber. And while the food is tight, it goes way past any predictable charcuterie and cheese template (although from time to time you’ll find an excellent terrine with pickled vegetables with spent-grain sourdough from Little Home Bakery).
Different interpretations of WA fish – such as kingfish with the bright, assertive flavours of ponzu and fermented chilli – sit alongside more commercially astute non-sharers like the clever read of a steak sandwich, Willi’s prime rib in a bun with pickled iceberg lettuce and mustard cream, a triumph of texture and editing. Ditto a Thai-ish yellow chicken curry.
It all hangs off an unpretentious but smart drinks collection and some of the best waiters in Perth, making Willi’s a sure-fire winner.
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