Wildflower

A new chef has dialled up the flavour at this grand, inner-city fine diner. 

Settling a new chef into the top job is a defining moment for a restaurant, particularly one that’s become emblematic of a city’s fine dining scene. Paul Wilson (ex-Canberra’s Monster Kitchen and Bar) has taken over the kitchen of COMO The Treasury’s signature rooftop venue, and thankfully he’s continuing the legacy with fresh energy.

First stop, re-invigorating the very precise, almost serene four-, six- or eight-course fine dining menu. Wilson has a way with vegetables – Monster was entirely vegetarian after all – which shows very clearly in a deeply savoury mushroom and black garlic chawanmushi, given bounce and lift with sweetcorn, and richness from macadamia puree. He’s no slouch with meat, either, with lamb tartare packing a proper punch with muntries, ice plant and sunrise lime. Menu touchstones remain: there’ll almost always be a Wagin Duck course, for example, plus that top-shelf wine list is still there. And that easygoing and agreeable but elegant service. Change can be as good as a holiday, and this change feels like a big, very well-deserved treat for anyone who steps through the doors.