What can we say about Wildfower that hasn’t already been written in glowing terms by some of the best restaurant writers around the world. It has indeed garnered international attention and an intercontinental fan base, for its inventive use of indigenous and locally grown produce, foraged herbs, leaves and succulants, and for its elegant, minimalist dishes.

The departure of founding chef Jed Gerrad this year was a mere hiccup. The kitchen, under Gerrard’s sous Matthew Sartori, has barely missed a beat, although there have been some lapses in plating – small beer really, but when you’re this good, everyone’s looking, right?

The food has retained its Noma-esque sparseness and the culinary morse code of dots and dashes of garnishes and sauces, which make these dishes painterly and eye catching.

The menu, as always, is based on the local indigenous calendar of six seasons.

Salt-baked celeriac carries with it the ash flavours of its baking and a nutty backbeat of macadamia and burnt butter. Raw Rottnest Island scallop is garnished beautifully with daikon, a Geraldton wax crème and juicy foraged herbs. We’re not entirely sold on the “Karri country potatoes” dish but are huge fans of the Berkshire pork collar with wildflower honey and burnt onion.

This is high church food delivered without fuss or intimidation. It’s also a little fun too.

The service at Wildflower exceeds that of just about every other restaurant in WA and is polished, sleek, friendly but not matey, and well informed. Similarly wine service and the wine list are superb. And then of course, there is the dining room – hands down the most stunning, elegantly, perfectly resolved dining space in Perth.

Wildflower has retained its crown as one of the finest restaurants in WA.