Fine dining at its most wonderful, marrying world-class fare with luxurious surrounds.

Prepare to be amazed. Yes, the menu still boasts native ingredients and is an ode to the Indigenous calendar of six seasons. Yes, the space, in COMO The Treasury hotel, overlooking the Swan River is the same, a soft, feminine-feeling room with waiters who know the menu and wine list as well as they would an old friend. But since chef Matthew Sartori took over, the food has ratcheted up a notch.

Cured pink snapper is lifted with finger lime and iceplant, the use of crisped ginger subtle and superb. Manjimup marron is wickedly sweet, roasted to perfection, and given a lick of brown butter and macadamia richness, but it’s the lightly pickled kohlrabi that actually sends it into orbit.

Manjimup marron is wickedly sweet, roasted to perfection, and given a lick of brown butter and macadamia richness, but it’s the lightly pickled kohlrabi that actually sends it into orbit.

Perth Hills pork is rich, sticky and married classically with chestnut, locally with wattleseed, and unexpectedly with just enough Jerusalem artichoke to announce it as world class.

This is elegant, flavour-based food that screams confidence in the kitchen and delight on the plate. Team this with seriously good wine and matching non-alcoholic drinks, along with flawless service, and the water views seem almost superfluous.