WA fine dining at its most rarefied, with a stunning view, killer drinks and a menu that circles around the heart of the state.
Riding the lift up to the top floor of the State Buildings has something a little Tokyo about it, but from the moment the menu lands, it’s clear Wildflower couldn’t be anywhere other than right here, right now. Acacia, Geraldton wax, finger lime and river mint grace the menu, which shifts according to the Noongar seasons and draws on WA produce, both farmed and collected.
Manjimup marron is more like it, delicately poached, glazed with a togarashi butter and plated with nasturtium leaves: a knockout.
That said, dishes could work a little harder to engage with the subject matter – finger lime and lemon myrtle feel gratuitous when used as a garnish on a snack of chickpea panisse to start, and a sharp follow-up of local mushrooms given pleasant crunch by thin slices of chestnut and extra depth from chestnut custard, sees the acacia left in the background. Manjimup marron is more like it, delicately poached, glazed with a togarashi butter and plated with nasturtium leaves: a knockout.
Cheffy flourishes – foams, “espumas”, soils and snows – all feature but never get in the way of enjoyment, while engaged service plays support along with Emma Farrelly’s exceptional wine list. Just imagine if the place stopped revolving around the six seasons – as they describe it – and instead dove right in.