Inspired cocktails and small plates licked by open flames deliver an irresistible one-two punch at this bohemian South Freo newcomer.

For a lesson in how to take a simple mixed drink to a whole new level, consider the Roma Paloma at Wild in the Street. Tequila, lime and grapefruit soda play their usual parts, but it’s the addition of a zesty tomato shrub that brings exciting, unexpected depth to the equation. A Rosemary Rickey treads a similar path, calling on rosemary, dry vermouth and lemon myrtle to reinvigorate the gin-spiked soda classic.

A Rosemary Rickey treads a similar path, calling on rosemary, dry vermouth and lemon myrtle to reinvigorate the gin-spiked soda classic.

If these read basic to you, know that there’s a keen understanding of flavour at work here, and that’s true in the wood-fired cooking, too. House-made empanadas are essential ordering, rustically folded and charred at their edges. Smoke, meanwhile, is a recurring theme in more elaborate dishes like smoked beetroot carpaccio blotted with tangy tonnato or juicy tiger prawns laid on a swirl of smoked labne with lemon and chilli.

Is it wild? Hardly, but it’s an offbeat offering you’re unlikely to find elsewhere, mirrored by bright rendered walls, abundant greenery and wavy cane sculptures by Fiona Gavino suspended from the ceiling. Sink into a booth, and soak up the quirky and colourful spirit of this port hub on the up and up.