An iconic watering hole has new operators and a new lease on life, offering pub classics and elevated fare that sing, plus meat and veg raffles for good measure.
Things are very much in flux at this handsome pub that’s kept Albany locals fed and watered for more than a century. Bought by Rhiannon Moon and Sam Dawson (of excellent nearby bakery Bred Co) and Kate Marwick (of Emu Point Cafe) in 2022, things have been happening in steps as they refresh the sprawling two-storey building.
Beers from the on-site brewery range from smashable mid-strength XPA through to stout, while the menu incorporates extras from Bred Co into a mix of pub classics given added attention.
What’s clear from the early stages of reopening, though – with a rejigged brewery, restocked fridges, a renovated back bar and a new menu – is that this isn’t your regular watering hole. Beers from the on-site brewery range from smashable mid-strength XPA through to stout, while the menu incorporates extras from Bred Co into a mix of pub classics given added attention. Fresh-churned butter is seasoned with Albany sea salt, for example, while the schnitzel is locally caught queen snapper, served with caperberries, lemony homemade mayo and soft-boiled eggs – like a deconstructed sauce gribiche. Ribollita, a hearty bean stew, comes with more sourdough.
The wine list is given careful consideration and even your standard vanilla ice-cream gets a lift from beer vinegar and candied spent grain. If this is a sign of things to come, this Great Southern local is set to become an essential destination.