A heavyweight of fine dining with a deft touch.
Winery dining, especially the degustation variety, can sometimes turn into a laboured show and tell. Ideally, it should feel like an in-depth, intimate conversation between the diner and the restaurant-cum-winery. Voyager excels at this.
Their menus, based on the season in the vineyard, are finely pitched for those here to experience wine and food – perhaps in that order. On the plate you might find house-baked bread with Voyager-mite butter and powdered burnt leek, or bite-size Fremantle Octopus with strawberry gum glaze and fermented zucchini. Transitions between courses, and wines, are masterful – the influence of long-time estate sommelier Claire Tonon strongly felt. There’s discoveries to be made, even for those well-versed in the estate’s past and present: a wine infused with estate botanicals, a collaboration between chefs, winemakers and gardeners, a real moment of delight. And while this is one of the more formal expressions of fine dining in the region (running to around three hours in their grand Dutch colonial surrounds), there are moments of levity: the offer of a chunk of bread to mop up a koji cream served with beef, and the server gleefully sharing their most-loved dishes. It’s all just an excuse to come back as the seasons change.
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