Some of the state’s most imaginative cooking in a classic winery setting.
There’s not much in the simple menu descriptions to hint at the creativity you’re about to experience. The room, too, while lovely, gives off classic winery vibes, with soaring timber ceilings and windows looking out over vast vineyard holdings – you might expect truffles and caviar here, but not the decidedly modern riot of flavours chef Cameron Jones is delivering.
But you sure won’t be disappointed – even the wildest creations are built with deliciousness as their underpinning. A dish described as ‘kangaroo, ssamjang, rice’ turns out to be a bam-pop-pow of flavours and textures, the raw meat supple and layered with sweet fermented bean and chilli paste, and dusted with tangy bush tomato. The ubiquitous raw kingfish entree is made new again, bathed in rhubarb, ginger and pink peppercorn, the quality of the fish reminiscent of that you’d find in Tokyo’s best sushi bars. Pork comes wrapped in a parcel of greens, which when unravelled reveals a beguiling mixture of coconut, pear and black sesame. This is a place for long lunches, and waits between courses can stretch at peak times – but a highly trained staff make sure to slip you an extra glass of wine and a smile if they feel anything is even slightly amiss.
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