An incognito fine diner which brims with good service and food to match.
Veteran chef Todd Stuart, formerly the owner-chef of revered Petite Mort, opened Twenty Seats with a vision that was perhaps small in size but large in vision. The restaurant’s name isn’t literal, but it instead implies the wish to serve around twenty diners per night with no tables turned mid-service – an act of hospitality in itself and one that lends to the calmness of the room. It’s also perhaps generous, bearing in mind that bookings for Twenty Seats are not just advisable, they’re essential; often months in advance. Each sitting takes the form of 10 inventive courses from hands-on ‘finger food’ to dishes that hero seafood and vegetables before the big-ticket proteins like Wagin Duck and wagyu short-rib. There’s a vegetarian option that makes just a few clever changes so diners don’t feel like they’re eating opposing meals. The use of raclette as a supplementary cheese course is glorious.