A local legend that always gets the details right, ups the ante for neighbourhood Japanese restaurants.
Owner-chef Pepe Tsukayama’s willingness to take things one step further makes for compelling eating at his eponymous suburban eatery. Begin with deeply flavourful miso soup, and relish the way the addition of clams in their shells magnifies its intensity. Note how thickly he slices Ōra King salmon sashimi, so that you appreciate the belly’s buttery sweetness long after the last bite.
Begin with deeply flavourful miso soup, and relish the way the addition of clams in their shells magnifies its intensity.
Basics are squarely covered, from sharply executed maki rolls to a miso-glazed eggplant that pulls no punches. Yet it’s in the synthesis of Japanese and Peruvian traditions that dishes here find their highest note. There’s no better proof than a tiradito of supple Hokkaido scallops given fluorescent brightness from both lemon and yuzu juice, with “leek ash” and blitzed rocoto chillies adding smoke and spice.
So much of the undeniable charm factor comes down to the unassuming nature of it all, and with no liquor licence to speak of, the option to bring your own bottle only adds to the appeal. Opt instead for bottomless genmaicha tea, and watch it be topped up
with hyper-efficiency by the endlessly warm floor team. You’ll leave with little wonder in your mind why bookings aren’t always easy to come by.