When Trustee first opened it ushered in a renaissance for Perth’s CBD  dining scene. With corporate lunch spending obliterated by the recession (we weren’t having) Trustee was banking its future fortunes on a fattening of the corporate wallet as the bad economic times receded and punters returning to Perth after dark (they had abandoned the city centre, as Northbridge, Mt Lawley and Leederville took off as restaurant precincts).

The gamble paid off. In fact, so well, Scott Taylor had many imitators, emboldened by his success.

Set in the beautifully renovated digs of a majestic heritage building, its menu of meat-heavy dishes (the chateaubriand is still the best in Perth) and huge wine list – more than 500 titles – seemed designed for the business lunch where deals were done over a bottle of Penfolds, and a hefty wodge of grilled protein.

A menu of just five entrees, four mains, two meats from the grill and the chateaubriand makes it difficult for non-carnivores. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. In a town where charcuterie plates are breeding like rabbits, Trustee’s selection is one of the best in town. Fourteen-hour slow-cooked pork belly was banging with flavour. Another entrée of fried squid crisped up a treat, and was tender to boot. Braised Arkady lamb shoulder fell apart like a love-struck teenager and its super tasty ratatouille, potato puree and pistachio crumb garnishes complemented each other nicely.

For dessert, vanilla crème brulee had a spoon-cracking carapace of burnt sugar and a perfectly smooth and  silky custard served at room temp. Sublime. It’s intimate enough for a date night, fancy enough for that important biz lunch or dinner,  plus its rum bar, Angel’s Cut by the Trustee, upstairs, is a large and relaxed space for a pre or post-dinner drink.

And, should you be at Trustee with a bunch of mates, we highly recommend the perfectly roasted chateaubriand. It’s a meat lovers dream come true.