A William Street ramen landmark doling out bowls of chicken-based tori paitan ramen with addictive length and richness.

In Perth’s ramen stakes, Tosaka sets itself apart from the get-go. As one of the few places specialising in tori paitan, it brings an edge to an oft-repeated format. Here the bowls are filled with a rich white chicken broth (frothed vigorously before serving to add air and body) that has all the depth and creaminess of tonkotsu, without the heaviness.

The extras, of course, add to the experience, whether it’s the droplets of chicken fat gracing the surface, the sweet, jammy-yolked soy egg, noodles with the right amount of bite, or the cabbage and onion adding freshness, each part adds to the whole.

The extras, of course, add to the experience, whether it’s the droplets of chicken fat gracing the surface, the sweet, jammy-yolked soy egg, noodles with the right amount of bite, or the cabbage and onion adding freshness, each part adds to the whole.

And that’s before you splash in the shrimp-flavoured chilli oil; needless to say, it’s one fine bowl of noodles. But there’s fun to be had around the edges, too. Chicken gyoza with spicy sauce and a bitter-sweet matcha ice-cream for dessert hit the right notes, while a good list of Japanese beer is complemented by affordable sake and wine.

Service can be slow when it’s busy (and it does get busy), but just use it as a chance to admire the ramen field guide on the wall and savour a flavour that will last long in the memory.