This CBD restaurant-bar is proof of the enduring pull of good booze and rotisserie chook.

While Paul Aron and Michael Forde (Mary Street Bakery) have been quiet on new openings, equal measures of attention on good booze and good food have kept Tiny’s front of mind in the CBD’s west end.

Servers home in on food-loving drink matches, from a skinsy La Violetta pet-nat to grenache from low-fi Swan Valley maker, Vino Volta. Non-alcoholic options from NON, Seedlip and Heaps Normal prop things up.

The casual menu works well, with new interest coming from first-time head chef Justin Wong, who’s given the menu a more personal edge.

The casual menu works well, with new interest coming from first-time head chef Justin Wong, who’s given the menu a more personal edge. Take a dish of clams that brings the burn with a double hit of acidity and mouth-numbing heat (quelled perfectly by that pet-nat). Or pork belly that delivers the all-important promise of crisp crackling, with pickled persimmon working well as a foil.

The signature, though, is still the rotisserie chicken. Served as a carved half or whole bird, its direction has shifted under Wong, who serves the golden-skinned chook with rich, fragrant kapitan sauce (a nod to his Malaysian heritage). A cos salad with nuoc cham is a zippy accompaniment. Not every dish sticks the landing, but there’s promise, good times and (very) good chicken to bring it home.