Sit on the expansive verandah of this gastropub overlooking Yagan Square, and catch the breeze with mates, craft beers and juicy, pickled burgers for company.

The best gastropubs work hard to deliver the simple. No need to know that The Royal’s octopus has been meticulously sourced from Abrolhos Island, cooked sous-vide to impart tenderness, then glazed with teriyaki and finished with nori, sesame, chive and spring-onion oil to know it’s delicious. Similarly an approachable butterflied chicken has been marinated for days in Thai fish sauce, coriander, ginger, garlic and chilli, before being roasted and glazed in a Korean barbecue paste.

Your humble cheeseburger is a toasted brioche bun squished down, a Wagyu pattie with heavy char inside, with cheddar crust and kicking house pickles. It sells faster than those Northbridge-bound siren-blaring police cars screaming past below.

The Royal Burger? A toasted brioche bun squished around a heavily charred wagyu patty, a cheddar crust and kicking house pickles. No wonder it sells out faster than the siren-blaring police cars that scream past below. Too noisy? Think of it as a reminder that pubs this good don’t usually occupy such prime CBD real estate; and you can always sit inside.

Yes, service can fluctuate, but the multi-million dollar fit-out has been designed to hold various levels of interest (karaoke anyone?). Regular specials keep Chase Weber’s kitchen moving, and the expansive tap program accommodates all craft-beer tastes.

It’s food and beer for all comers, with pleasant surprises for those in the know (like that the golden syrup and wattleseed tart is inspired by Momofuku’s crack pie). Simple, and very effective.